Sunday, 16 January 2011

Another New Country

It’s been an interesting and exciting few days. On my final day in KL with Carole we went to the Batu Caves where there is a Hindu shrine which this Thursday becomes the focus of a major Hindu festival and pilgrimage, called Taipusam. Then we went to a talk about the festival given by a member of the local cultural circle who is also a great photographer and had a great collection of photos from the festival in previous years.

I left on the 10pm train to Butterworth, which as well as being the place to catch the Bangkok train, is the mainland port for ferries to the nearby island of Penang. There was 8 hours to wait there, so several people made the short ferry trip over to Georgetown – the world heritage site on Penang. I teamed up with a Canadian guy and as we explored Georgetown we stumbled upon a Hindu temple where they were having a festival very like the one that’s due this Thursday but on a smaller scale. We saw the worshippers gathering with the weights strapped to their heads as an act of sacrifice, and the priests giving blessings, and then great excitement as a statue of the god is carried on a chariot pulled by to decorated oxen.
We were so lucky just to be in the right place at the right time, and I was especially glad that I understood so much more, having been to the talk the previous day. I also didn’t hesitate to ask people there what was happening as it all seemed so relaxed and jolly.

Then we got on board for a 24 hour train trip to Bangkok. It actually took quite a bit longer. In the night I was woken by a very loud bang and jolt and thought for a moment that the train had crashed, but then everything went quiet, and I went straight back to sleep. In the morning it turned out that the train had crashed and we’d been stationary a lot of the night. The train crew played it down and I still don’t know what we hit, but on the grapevine I heard that some people had been hurt and taken to hospital.
On the journey I got to know a large Indonesian family and a Swiss woman so I had company and entertainment.

Now I’m in Bangkok. I arrived too late to see anything last night. I’m staying in a hostel which has single rooms as well as dorms – so I have a single room, en suite, with air con, for about £9 a night.
Over the last few days I’ve had to become increasingly adventurous with what I eat. Near Butterworth station for lunch I had rice and veg for about 20p from a very non-touristy place. Last night I had an eggy pancake, cooked at a street stall, which was delicious, for about 30p. On the train I had a set breakfast that consisted mainly of chocolate biscuits. For lunch today I ate somewhere where there was no english menu, so I asked for rice and vegetables. I got the most delicious fried rice with egg, chicken and vegetables, cooked before my eyes, and I did see the chef/proprietor/waiter wash his hands first. With a fizzy drink it came to about 80p.
Today I really enjoyed a visit to the Jim Thompson House. He was an American who settled in Bangkok after the war and revived the Thai silk industry. His house is a collection of traditional Thai houses brought together, and houses his fabulous collection of Thai art and antiques. Then I spent a peaceful afternoon at Lumpini Park watching games of Takraw (like volleyball but with the feet - the aerial overhead backward kicks are amazing, and risky on a concrete pitch!).
It's been sunny today after the grey weather of the last two cities - but it didn't seem any hotter.
The pictures on this entry are the entrance steps and statue of the god at the Batu caves, some young participants at the festival in Georgetown and the Jim Thompson House. I'll also add a photo to my last entry as it didn't have one.

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